PDA

View Full Version : South Africa - Quick Dive Report


Bren Tierney
30-09-2003, 15:13
I posted this on another forum in response to a question from 'nickjb', who I think might be member here also. Any way, hope it helps:


"Hey Nick,

We did this trip in October 2001. I'm happy to recount that it was simply the Nads!

After you've finished in Ponto Do Oro (Mozambique), head down the KwaZulu-Natal coast (e.g. Richards Bay, this has the nearest chamber also) and check out the first of your 'must-see' diving stops: Sodwana Bay.

A National Marine Reserve Park with outstanding diving and the potential, if you've not already seen them at Ponto, to see Whale Sharks. We drove over a baby one (BY ACCIDENT!) in the RIB (or 'Rubber Ducks' as they call them out there) as we were speeding our way out to one of the dive sites (9-Mile Reef, if memory serves), it was OK and none-the-worse for wear I'm happy to report.

We stayed at the Sodwana Bay Lodge - see here:

<a href="http://kwazulu.hotelguide.co.za/sodwana-bay-lodge.html" > <a href="http://kwazulu.hotelguide.co.za/sodwana-bay-lodge.html" >http://kwazulu.hotelguide.co.za/sodwana-bay-lodge.html</a></a>

- cabin/hut-type accommodation with en-suite flushing dunny, shower, basin etc. Beds with Mozzie-nets (although we never had cause to use them), big veranda-balconies for sitting out in the afternoon/evening and taking in the African Bush whilst sipping the poison of your choice, wonderful sunsets! The place has an on-site pool, sun-loungers, bar, pool room with satellite TV and restaurant/cafe with a varied menu and great fresh fish! There is an on-site PADI 5* dive-centre which takes you and your kit the 1.5 km to the beach, from where you launch. Top place and highly recommended. You can do other things like midnight horse-rides across the moon-lit beach and sand dunes, as well as visit the massively recommended, and very near, Hluhluwe (pronounced 'Schluschluwe') National Game Park - just as enjoyable as Kruger. The diving here is mainly reef diving, but none the poorer for that. I saw many species I'd never set eyes on before. Masses of turles and reef formations that are unique in a lot ways (trenches, bowls, scrapes, top swims-through etc.)

Moving further down the KZ-N coast, towards Durban, you'll come to Unkomas, the town which services Aliwal Shoal.

The diving here is also excellent, with a mixture of good reef systems, 'nursery' areas for Raggie Tooth Sharks (inquisitive, look fearsome, but gentle as goldfish) such as 'Raggie Cave' and 'The Cathedral', the latter being spectacular as the sharks gather in such numbers and merely rest or circle in the cave.

You also have two 'must-do' wreck dives here: the 'Nebo' and the 'Produce'; the 'Nebo' being a bulk-carrier in about 33 metres, massive, snapped in half so penetration of holds, cabins, wheel-house and other deck-spaces is easy and offers massive choice. She's on her starboard-side and is covered in fish (lots of fish!) - inside and out. The 'Produce' was sunk pre-1900 and is an older and relatively collapsed wreck, but still provides loads of nooks-n-crannies for divers to wander around and have a peak. The plates on her rise out of the seabed and her strutts and ribs (which seem endless) can easliy keep you occupied for the dive.

We did both wrecks (both circa 30 metres, dependent on tides) in one day; we clocked up abpout 12 mins of deco on the last dive, but if you're happy with that, then fill yer boots, we did. We stayed in a wee B&B (again with massive deck/veranda area for after dive sherries and to sit and chat with other divers/guests) in Unkomas, but the local dive centre came to pick us up every morning and drop us off back when we'd done for the day. Here too, and one of the overriding memories we took from our second trip to SA is the complete and sincere openess and friendliness of the B&B owners and hoteliers in general. They realise that you are their 'life-blood' and treat you with the customer-orientated 'how can I help sir/madam' attitude which can be, alas, lacking in other countries.

Then on down to Protea banks - shark-fest-central!!

It has to be said that you don't dive 'The Banks' for the reefs! If you're after reefs, stick with the above two options. We did four dives here over two days and as a result would recommend it to anyone wanting decent 'shark action'.

All the diving we did, and most of the divng off the South African coast, as far as we can tell (with the possible exception of cage-diving for Great Whites), is done off very large RIBS ('Rubber Ducks'). You all gather around the RIB on the shore and face her into the breakers. Then you run with the bow facing seaward and get her afloat. When the water is up to everyone's waist, the ladies get on; when it's up to your armpits/shoulders, the men get on. Once all aboard, the skipper gives a brief orders drill on the dos-n-don'ts, strapping yourself into the foot and hand-grips, then does a double circle close to shore to signal the harbour/beach-master's tower that all is OK and then you're off - out through the breakers, and what a rush!

As you bounce merrily along (some of it in mid-air), you speed up and head off-shore. This is true 'bounce-diving' in the 'blue'. The skipper knows the GPS points and takes you right to them. All kitted-up (tanks and kit arrayed in central holding-spine onboard), you backward roll off the RIB and with a very quick surface visual and an all round 'OK' signal, you all head down, finning, following the DM who carries a surface marker buoy so the skipper can keep tabs on where you are in the drift.

On the first dive, I think we saw one retreating Raggie and just pootled around in a group (watching as various shoals of fish went by), all at neutral-buoyancy and watching and waiting. The dive lasted about 40 mins (about 33m max depth - although other dives were to 42 and 47 metres) and we came ashore with thoughts of 'oh well, what ever happens at Protea Banks obviously happened to someone else on a different day'. We spoke way too soon!

The second dive saw us drop in off the RIB and straight down to 30 metres. Almost immediately we saw a family of Ribbon-tail Rays (we'd never seen them before) doing a family jig! Then, and with the DM 'bellowing' through his reg, we turned to see two Zambezi (Bull) Sharks come over to check us out! No sooner had they left, then a couple of Angle Sharks, followed by a Guitar Shark hove into view on the seabed. At this stage, we'd comepletely changed our minds about Protea Banks as these sightings alone had made the trip worthwhile.

Happy in our reverie, we began a very slow ascent and were at about 22 metres when the DM again began to 'windmill' his arms to grab everyone's attention - an Oceanic White coming towards us for a brief look-see! Wow, these beasts usually stay deep (40+ metres) during the day and come closer to the surface to feed at night, so what a bonus.

But, we had seen nothing yet!

As we continued the ascent, we hit about 15 metres when a couple of Bronze-Whaler Sharks came screaming past us, stopped, and then carried on about their business.

And THEN the event happened.

We were at 13 metres doing the 1st of our safey stops (12 days of bounce-diving to depth and with very short surface intervals meant that deeper stops made sense) when in excess of 120-150 Hammerheads came right towards us: above, below and from all sides! A genuinely awe-inspiring sight! Cameras and videos going like crazy we just hung there and watched the spectacle. Amazing.

And all that on one dive! After the 1st dive's disappointment! There's an old adage at Protea Banks: 'if you don't see what you want, have another look in 30 minutes..' and they are dead right.

To be honest, after this magnificent display, we couldn't really care if they turned round and said that all diving was cancelled for the rest of the week, we'd been treated to a series of underwater memories that will last a lifetime.

Diving in South Africa is HIGHLY recommended, and I'm glad Yvonne/'Bunny' enjoyed it so much and is going back. You will NOT be disappointed.

The other outrageous bonus is that the country is dirt-cheap (though markedly more so in Mozambique) for just about everthing. The Rand, last time I checked, was standing at about 17 to the ?! Happy days.

Hope this gives you a flavour of what's on offer - and there's a lot. We booked with 'Dive the Big 5' (see URL below) who hooked us up with, if memory serves, African Dive Adventures in-country. Their URL also has detailed info on the wrecks and reefs we dived and the many other options.

Oh, one last thing, I advise you take/rent a semi-dry (we dived in O'Three 5mm semis with a 3mm shortie undersuit and were toastie warm). Your call dependent on how much you feel the cold.

<a href="http://www.divethebig5.co.za/" > <a href="http://www.divethebig5.co.za/" >http://www.divethebig5.co.za/</a></a>

HTH, enjoy and dive safe.

Bren."

dave covey
01-10-2003, 13:07
I posted this on another forum in response to a question from 'nickjb', who I think might be member here also. Any way, hope it helps:


Bren, your posts are always SUPERB!!

(Well done & thanks for your efforts!)

diverd
06-11-2003, 16:14
Nice report Bren! Thanks!

If anyone wants to go out and dive South Africa, email me directly at home and I'll give you all the information you require to enable you to book directly with the local operators out there. This would commonly half the price you're being robbed paying through the big commercial tour operators here locally. I can get you the 'Sardine Run' all inclusive directly for around ?950/?1000 (excluding flights) with the very same operators that you end up using with the large tour companies here (and paying up to ?1800 for). Sodwana Bay for around ?150 per week (plus your flights and local transfers)... yes, that's right, that's about what we pay locally!

Briefly, I'm a sports and technical diving Instructor Trainer from Durban, South Africa, who's grown up and worked the KwaZulu Natal and Mozambique coastline most of my life (Unfortunately I presently live and work in London). Personally I'd like to see more people getting out to dive and appreciate the KwaZulu Natal coastline and thereby increase local enterprise. I stress your bookings would be direct with the local dive operators, I have no commercial interest or gain in offering any advice what-so-ever.

Up to you then...

kind regards
diverd

e. <a href="mailto:dennis@dgainternational.co.uk">dennis@dgainternational.co.uk</a>

Keith Lawrence(BSAC)
06-11-2003, 17:31
Hmmm? I would just like to point out that most UK tour operators supply a complete package that includes all of the ?little? extras such as transfers, I am sure that many of you know the cost of airport taxis!. I would also like to point out that any such direct bookings to a company outside of the EU would not be covered by any of the consumer protection legislation and things like ATOL bonding that we take for granted, enjoy yourselves sorting that little lot out should anything go wrong.

You pays your money and you makes your choice as they say, just be aware of what you?re buying before you jump in!

Keith L

diverd
06-11-2003, 22:11
Oooops?

Fair enough comment Keith, absolutely right about the comfort factor we all take for granted travelling from the EU. Be clear, I have no ambition to 'win any business' or operate as the cowboy down the road. Having grown up in the tropics of South Africa and Mozambique I know what diving costs there, and I know the extortionate amount of money it costs for a trip out through the 'EU' tour package companies, who are just sub-contracting out to the local dive operators anyway.

After all, it's the local dive operators themselves who come meet you at the airport, take you to your hotel, pick you up in the morning, organise and lead your dives, and take care of your post dive activities, etc. Personally I think that if the middle man stops making such profit you'd see more people being able to afford a trip out to dive South Africa, and the destination would become more favourable on a cost comparison. This benefits the 'EU' traveller, and of course it benefits the local economy who themselves are crying out for opportunity.

I currently find that many people are quite happy to arrange their own trips and itineraries within the country, are happy to go book their own flights at their local flight centre, and cover themselves quite aptly with their own private travel insurance. Granted I am not a travel agent, and am not trying to be a travel agent, so I'm in no position clearly to comment on the consumer protection legislation you mention.

Personally when I travel (and I predominantly do most of my own diving off-the-beaten-track throughout the Middle East) I prefer the adventure of sorting out my own itinerary and heading off to dive destinations well away from the maddening crowd of mass tourism. This enables me to escape the tourist traps of the likes of Sharm El Sheik and Hurghada, and allows me to dive sites that most probably wouldn't have the good fortune to visit. It also allows me the good opportunity to meet many great locals, see historical and archaeological sites that few might ever get to, and frequently affords me a fantastic holiday at a fair price to myself and those on the receiving end. Of course I admit that travel packages to the Middle East are so competitive anyway, that my efforts have less to do with price than quality. I also concede that my adventure of travel won?t necessarily appeal to all, but then again I wasn?t trying to. It?s just a belief that if we put a little bit of effort into our adventures in life, we frequently find that the personal returns reciprocate proportionately. What a fantastic opportunity we all have to do something great with our lives, and yet what a shame that so many of us are so content to live our lives on cruise control settling for ?convenience? and the ?quick-and-easy?. But there I am babbling away, and that?s got nothing to do with the topic in question?

As an ex-local I have the privilege of knowing who all the local operators are, I know where to go and where not to go, I know the good skippers and the bad, and I know the good divemasters and the bad, I know the good dive shops and the bad, I know the roads, I know the game parks, I know all the reefs, I know the currents, I know the sharks, bla, bla, bla? I also know who the commercialistic locals are, I know which of the local operators have the most diving accidents (that go unreported), I know which operators (some of whom you?ll see at the NEC or London International dive shows) have lost divers at sea through their eagerness to launch in poor conditions due to pressures of commercialism, and of course I know which of the locals will truly host you in the best tradition of hospitality and safety.

My previous posting does not embody any attempt to solicit business, it is merely a kind offer of local knowledge to any person considering organising a self-made budget package to dive the best that South Africa has to offer. Granted, I don?t want to spend 60 hours a week writing emails and answering phone calls either. Nor do I want encourage any itinerary that someone might have a come back at me with. I wish to reiterate for all and sundry: I am not selling anything! All I offered was innocent local advice, knowledge, and guidance.

To defend my comparisons: A self-booked trip to South Africa to join the ?Sardine Run? (for example) with one of the top local operators? (who caters for the Discovery Channel, the Cousteau Society, Gerard Soury, Nigel Martins, etc), staying in upmarket log cabin waterfront accommodation, 7 days/6 nights, all meals, transfers, 5-days sardine fever diving, air fills, weight belts, microlight spotter plane, after-diving activities, excluding of course: flights, travel insurance, and equipment hire - would cost around R12 090 (that?s less than a ?1000) ? a site cheaper than the up to ?1800 I?ve seen offered here in the ?EU? (but do your own calculations). I do concede, you pay your money and you get what you get. Absolutely true too, one needs to carefully evaluate just what it is that you are getting yourself into for the good money you are paying.

Perhaps there is a place within the nature of these forums for people to provide honest good advice and offer their opinions on trips they have made and lessons they have learned, for the advantage of adventures that others might like to realize? My kind offer is there for those who do, and I have no doubt we all appreciate all the honest down to earth travel reports that so many others, like Bren?s, get posted here to these forums for others to enjoy. I know I always enjoy reading each and every one of them. I thank you for the opportunity to voice my own cheeky opinions to your audience.


With thanks and kind regards,

Dennis Guichard
(diverd)

Keith Lawrence(BSAC)
06-11-2003, 22:27
No problem Dennis, I just thought that your comment about people being "robbed" when you were not comparing like with like to be a little unfair and simplistic - hence the short balancing post.

Keep posting by all means, your experience of organising such DIY trips for yourself will be of interest to many (including me). But we do try to keep a balance, report good and bad of everything but keep it in context so that people can make decisions based on evidence and fact rather than just opinion.

Kind Regards

Keith L

diverd
06-11-2003, 23:25
Thanks Keith, point taken. It's become such a commercialistic world we all live in, and everyone is always so hungry for a bargain. It's commonly fair to stress that cheaper is rarely better, we really do commonly get what we pay for. The diving industry is so good at unscrupiously undercutting the competition (and lowering standards) in an attempt to win business, which few of us short-sightedly complain against as we self-profit from the game, however I do think it's an action which will at some point cause our industry serious harm. The end-user frequently is the one who suffers most (whether it's the Red Sea or South Africa) - dive operators / skippers / Instructors / divemasters / etc, (not to even get started on training standards worldwide!) as people are driven by commercialistic ambitions. On the other hand I struggle to accept the reciprical profiteering that some manage to enjoy at our expense as they successfully target what they consider to be their niche market. You're quite right, there has to be a mid-point balance somewhere that is fair for all. All that aside, I do acknowledge what you meant with your own comments and advice.

safe diving to all...

kind regards
diverd